It is a good moment in time to point those who cannot see the importance of adapting and working towards not just climate change, but sustainability and show them that both large and small agricultural businesses (because that is what wine businesses are) can come together to present a way forward.
Certification has been gradually gaining ground in the eyes of consumers for judging the environmentally friendly product that they wish to purchase. The Marine Stewardship Council, for example, has pioneered certified sustainable seafood with a certification process for Fisheries and an Eco label scheme. Now there is a significant attempt for a sector of the wine industry.
The Californian Sustainable Wine Growing Alliance (CSWA) has emerged from small boutique wineries, small grape growers and all sizes up to the big giants of the California wine industry such as Constellation Wines and E and J Gallo.
What is different about this is that it is an industry led organisation, from the roots up. It is not a bureaucratically imposed certification system which does not take into account the practicalities of the industry. It has enough wineries on board to make it work.
All the certification systems will take a time to prove themselves. It is not certain that every initiative will succeed. But it looks as though this one has all the hallmarks of success.
The potential is there for Californian wine certified as sustainable to have a serious competitive advantage with consumers. It is consumers that are driving many of the practical applications of sustainable practices in agriculture. I certainly recall, the advantage that Fetzer Brothers had with their organic wines at a time when getting wine that is both organic and “commercial” was not always easy. The wider issue of sustainability is in a similar position now.
I know that my wine can be ‘played around with’. It is part of the art of the winemaker to express their ability through changing the flavours of wine by subtle alterations to the process. Ageing in barrels being the most obvious.
I expect wine makers to want to try to be sustainable, to alter their practices to produce better products. Making a wine sustainable does not in itself improve its quality, but making wine in the certain way often indicates the philosophy of the winemaker - which is driving them to make better wine. Biodynamics for example, may not always produce significant improvements in the quality or flavour of the wine but it is part of a wide base of actions to holistically make something better. You can view sustainability in the same broad way.
But I can go out and buy a good wine now, some of which will be produced by organic, biodynamic, Fairtrade or sustainable practices. But what I will know from a certification process is that there are methods of indicating if the wine maker is ‘making the grade’. It helps me understand if the wine maker is working in the right direction. It allows the wine maker to ‘move on’ to the improvements in flavour, quality and taste within the framework of ‘best practice for the survival of the planet’.
Certification can work. It can also fail to meet its objectives. But this is the best big effort I have seen so far. It is not that there is an absence of certification for good practices elsewhere. It is the breadth of the participants in the case of California that gives hope.
In the future, while I can look out for a wine certified by the California Sustainable Wine-growing Alliance, I will also want to look out for wine that meets the same criteria from other countries.
Making certification international is a bigger problem and I hope the wine industry tackles it. The Marine stewardship Council fish on my plate can have certification that is recognised internationally - I can see no real reason why the glass of wine which will accompany it, cannot have similar robust environmental credentials.